How to Speak Suit

If you've never touched a sewing needle, your mental library of tailoring terminology probably only consists of a handful of words, if that. And while it's not at all necessary to speak the language, since when is that justification enough to halt the pursuit of knowledge? Other party guests are not likely to know the majority of these terms, so study up and you can sound like an expert at your next mixer.

• Bespoke - Made to order; e.g., bespoke tailoring.

• Pleat - Flat fold of fabric on each pant leg that can prevent bunching and improve fit.

• Cuff - Extra fabric at the end of a shirt sleeve or pant leg, typically fastened together by buttons or decorative cufflinks on the sleeves.

• Lining - Inner fabric that improves the feel of a jacket and hides the inside stitches, often made of satin because it looks nice and allows the jacket to glide over the shirt as it is worn or removed.

• Hem - Part of the fabric that is folded over and sewn in on itself to prevent unraveling, found wherever the edge of the fabric is exposed.

Style tip: A high gorge is currently on-trend.

• Lapels - The folded flaps of cloth at the top front of the jacket below the collar.

• Gorge - The notch where the lapel meets the collar (see picture). 

• Vent - A slit in the bottom or "tail" of the rear of the jacket that improves the suit's hang and comfort. Styles include single-vented, ventless, and double-vented.

• Fused - A jacket in which soft knit fabric has been heat glued to the underside of the wool, giving the wool more body but making the suit warmer and stiffer.

• Full-canvas (unfused) - Canvas is sewn in as the interlining instead of the heat glued knit fabric, making the suit more thin, supple and breathable.

• Half-canvas - The body of the coat has a fused interlining, but the lapels are stitched with canvas.

If you're looking for more info like this, follow us on Twitter @TScustomsuits and keep an eye out for #TailoredTips. And don't forget to like us on Facebook.

Browse our wide collection of premium suiting fabrics.